Language

Anyone living in the US has heard the "well, they're in America now, why can't they just learn English?" argument made about immigrants. To anyone who's ever said that, thought it or even considered that it might have merit, I dare you to come to Mauritania. I double-dare you.

Don't get me wrong, I believe 100% that you should do everything you can to learn the language of whatever country you live in. The problem is, most Americans don't bother to learn other languages and have no idea how hard it is. Nor do they put themselves in situations which really make them feel foreign. This is why they should come to Mauritania. Most people here in Selibaby speak 3-5 languages. No joke. The kids in my family speak Pulaar, Soninke, French, some Hassaniya and some English they learn in school. The first question my brother asked me was, "so do you want to learn Pulaar and Soninke at the same time?" I stared at him blankly for a minute, then told him it would be best to just start with one. Now, I've only been in Selibaby for about a month and a half, and have had no official Pulaar lessons yet, but after studying with my brother I've picked up some basic words and greetings. This is a typical interaction on the street:

Emily: Umbalijamb (good morning)
Mauritanian: mumbles something in Pulaar
Emily: Noumbada? (how are you?)
Mauritanian: something else I don't understand
Emily: Mashallah (thanks to god)

I usually have no clue what just took place, but when I'm lucky, it works out. I just kind of insert what I know and hope for the best. Problem is, sometimes, people are just too darn friendly and actually want to talk to me. Bummer. They try to speak to me in Pulaar, and after I rattle of my few expressions and greetings, I bust out the blank, deer-in-headlights stare, followed by a meek apology for not being able to communicate. They usually laugh and slap my hand, thinking "oh silly toubab, you're not very bright." At least twice a week, someone launches into a speech about how important it is to learn the language, how I can't just speak French, how (insert local language of choice) is so easy. And all I can do is nod and sneak away. I tried telling them that I've only been here for a month, I really want to learn and I'm starting Pulaar lessons as soon as school gets going (Inshallah!), but that doesn't matter. The first few times this happened, I was frustrated. I would walk home thinking, "oh come on, give me a break, I speak more languages than the average American and I just learned French!" But then I realized two things 1) It doesn't matter to them because, no matter how valid my excuses are, I really don't speak a local language yet, and 2) no one in the US would listen to the excuses of a foreigner either. As obvious as this seems, it's one thing to know this and one thing to feel it. I want so badly to communicate with people in their language, and the insinuation that I'm just not trying is maddening. Life in a foreign country is overwhelming--wonderfully, excitingly overwhelming--and things like picking up a language are 27 times harder than they would be otherwise because your brain is on overload with new information and situations.

So next time you hear someone talk about those darn foreigners who make us put signs up in Spanish and never try to learn English, send them my way. I've got extra matelas waiting!